Hampi was not on our radar, while traveling to Chitradurga Fort, we planned for just a weekend getaway from Bangalore by car. After finishing the trip to Kalline Kote, we instinctively decided why not rush to Hampi? It is just 150 kms away, with small stretch of 18 kms of bad road before Kudilgi on NH 13.
I happened to visit during 1978 along with my parents. In those days, it was typical village with a rustic atmosphere. There was not much interest among the tourist to visit this place, which was known as ruined city, without any guide we wandered cluelessly and we landed in the peak of summer to add to our discomfort. The only distinct memory was that of Inverted Gopuram of Virupakasha temple.
After a gap of nearly 30 years I find that a new civilization has emerged. Perhaps after Hampi being declared a world heritage site in 1987, a mind blowing transformation has taken place at Hampi. It is as if history is being re-written, with guides, autorikshaw round trip, bike guides, and professional tour operators unleashing knowledge to tourists.
There are exists lot of similarities between POMPEII %26amp; HAMPI. The common features are :
1. Road Network 2. Water Management 3. Temple construction 4. Public functions 5. Common Bath 6. Cultural Festivity 7 Art %26amp; Sculpture 8. Well defined markets.9 Brothels Lane.
Trading activity were carried out between various parts of the world in both the periods. We find gems %26amp; jewellery being traded in the bazaars. All household articles such as pottery, grains, vegetables, fruits, beetlenut, flowers etc were being traded. Further brothel lanes were located in the bazaar for the visitors and artisans from outstation.
Our first point of visit was Virupaksha temple which was guided by a foreigner, because we ignored the offer to be guided @ Rs 400/- for a trip, which we thought was exhorbitant. We entered the Virupaksha temple without any enterance fee ( between 6.30 to 8 am it is free entry) The sheer grandeur started unraveling. On the left there is a sanctum which is occupied by tourists for changeover, which is really surprising. The main temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is supposed to have been captivated by the dedication of Pampadevi. Lord Shiva consented to marry Pampa in his avatar as Virupaksha, the presiding deity.
Behind the Virupaksha temple lies a room wherein we can view the inverted image of the main tower through a pin hole. It is application of Periscope principle.
The bazaar in front of the Virupakasha temple is proposed to be shifted to another place to maintain the heritage look. The proposed shopping centre will be the main reporting centre for Hampi excursion. An organized trip with eco friendly mode of transport would be ideal. Further a fixed guide charges would be also be ideal depending on no of spots toured or time spent concept.
After Virupaksha temple visit we walked across a lane adjescent to the right, just on a blinder, towards Hemkunta hill. Here one is astounded by the skills of rock carving work station.. It is like a canvas on which artist exhibits his painting. The granite was the main raw material for most types of monumental construction at the site – which was abundant in and around Hampi for over 200 kms. Traditionally, granite blocks were split by first cutting rows of closely spaced cubical holes into which wooden wedges were pounded. When wetted, the wedges expanded, thereby propagating deep cracks through the stone which split as per dimension required by the artisans.
We found almost four temples, one was literally filled with water on the entrance, and other not so prominent temples, maybe created for low strata people of the times, even the poojary of the temple just gave us some insight, for which he was suitably tipped. The overnight heavy rain had made the rocky surface quite slippery, it was an adventure to climb Hemkunta hillock. The entire Hampi area, is visible in all its panaromic view. There is an acropolis type of two storey structure maybe for the kings to view. There is no description on this monument to my surprise.
Once you start climbing down the steps which is neatly chiseled on the rocks it is adventurers delight, a neat landscaped garden leads to Sasvikalu Ganesha. It is a monolithic exposure of Lord Ganesha which is barricaded to prevent vandalism.
Next we walk across we, come to Dodda Ganesh, which is again vandalized by Sultans, it is now a crude form, luckily the sanctum and veranda in not pillaged, the sculptures are exhuberance of dance and drama of the bygone era. Ugra Narasimha monolithic statue is located nearby along with Badavi Linga installed by a poor women.
We got to know that autorikshaw guides are available @ Rs 250/- to take us around and we decided to hire such a guide. He spent 3 hours taking us around all the important landmark starting from Hemkunt Dodda Kalu Ganesh, Sasive Ganesh, Ugra Narasimha, Badavi Linga, Veerabhadra Temple, Lotus Mahal, Elephant’s Stable, Mahanavami Dibba, Hazaar Rama Temple %26amp; Vittala Temple.
At the Mahanavmi Dibba, a celebration for Nine days was unfolded by the royalty. The king witnessed the cultural programmes such as folk dances, puppet show, fancy dress, fireworks, military parade, procession of horses and elephants, beginning with pooja to lord Durga. Even today the Government of Karnataka is trying to recreate the tradition of Vijayanagar empire by organizing HAMPI UTSAV in November first week every year.
The Sultans wanted to build their own architectural edifice to match Vijaynagar rulers, Lotus Mahal, a summer resting palace was created. It had its own pond to cool the surroundings. Behind the Lotus Mahal, Elephant stables in 11 domed structure is built to house the royal animal. Once again this area is barricaded for renovation. Behind this stable if one is adventurous one can go on a trek to visit a temple winding into a mini forest. There is a small temple by the side of Lotus temple which on the outer wall of Lotus Mahal.
After disposing the auto guide. We visited independently visited the balance places Sri Krishna temple, where one notices the vandalism of Sultans, who literally burnt down the temple along with people. It is rarely visited by tourist, the sculpture work is marvelous.
Then went around back to Hazaar Rama temple, which is the ultimate exposure of the skills of the artisans on rock hewn walls, temples and pillars. It is a culmination of the golden era of Vijaynagar empire. It looks as if the Kings got into a mode of celeberation of life, without warfare. We find scenes from the epics Ramayana, hunting scenes, battleground warfare, courtesans entertaining the kings, hunting scene in olden days and in general description of all day to day events in the life of the royalty.
The underground Shiva temple is a marvel. It is fed by water channels, which have entered the temple premises due to lack of conservation effort. Will ASI do some quick thinking otherwise it meet the fate of Musical pillar at Vittala temple.
Museum at Kamalapura houses some of the restored sculptures and various other pieces of artwork is stored. Many foreign travelers scourge HAMPI in their quest for the hidden treasures of HAMPI by camping months together. Someday, someone is bound to hit the jackpot. Till then Hampi literally rocks.
Which is the best trip have you undertaken till date ?
My best trip? Living and cruising for a year on a sailboat.
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Report It Reply:You don't actually think anyone read this do you ?:))
Reply:I didn't read all that, but my answer: I slept outside!
Exciting, right?
Reply:jeeze you didn't expect us to read all that? me - russia, 1984
Reply:For me It was Shimla(Himalayan Hill Station)....2006 it was awesome
Cheers
Reply:Europe and North Africa were awesome!
Reply:i went to hong kong in 2002, i loved it! wanna maybe live there oneday.
Reply:Its too bad of u i can not able to read all those thing but anyway my answer is i went to hong kong in 2002.it was nice place to see
Reply:Zero
Reply:A month back I went to VAranasi,GAya,and Haridwar all nice places,recently I had been to Rameswaram that is also nice.
Reply:My best trip ever was the delhi trip.Not only Delhi but manali,chandighar,banglore,hyderabad etc
